Stockholm is not a cheap city to visit on a budget. It’s almost an irony to say “Stockholm on a budget” because well, it can involve kebabs, pizza, and really disgustingly cheap stor stark beer or lättöl (light alcohol content beers).

Alas, there is some relief during the summertime in Stockholm.  Many museums have free days and some are free entirely.

Free Museums in Stockholm: Free ALL the time

Forum för levande historia (The Living History Forum)

This museum provides a haunting look at crimes against humanity and aims to remind us of the importance of learning from our dark pasts.

Färgfabriken (Center for contemporary art and architecture)

This museum boasts fun and serious exhibitions related to art, society, film, and architecture.  They also have interactive sections where you can get your own hands dirty.

Haga parkmuseum (Haga Park Museum)

Located in Solna, Haga Museum describes the history and architecture of the surrounding park.  The park grounds have The Turkish and Chinese Pavilion, Haga Ruins (Gustav III’s unfinished castle), a beautiful lake, and the bizarre yet gorgeous Copper Tents (where guards used to live) lies within the park grounds.  Take bus 515 from Odenplan to the park.

Haga Park Copper Tent by Linkahwai
Haga Park Museum

Dansmuseet (Museum for the Performing and Visual Arts)

This museum focuses on dance and theater from various cultures.  They occasionally have live performances.

Etnografiska museet (Ethnographic Museum)

Located on the northern part of Djurgården (take Bus 69 to get there), this museum hosts collections on humanity and Sweden’s interaction in conflicts.  The museum also boasts one of Europe’s Japanese Tea Houses which is open throughout the summer.  Call +46 (0)8-519 550 10 or send an e-mail to ulla.edberg@etnografiska.se about the tea ceremony times.

Stockholms medeltidsmuseum (The Museum of Medieval Stockholm)

This museum offers a look at medieval Stockholm set in an underground building just a stone’s throw away from the royal castle. The only visible remains of Stockholm’s medieval city wall are located, still intact, in the museum. There is even a medieval tunnel from the museum to the castle, which is very much closed to the public.

Stockholms Stadsmuseum (Stockholm City Museum)

An undiscerning blue-gray colored building at Slussen, the Stockholm City Museum provides an overview of the history of Stockholm from its founding to contemporary issues.

Tullmuseum (Swedish Customs Museum)

Not customs like culture, but customs as the annoying people who stand at the airports waiting to search you when exiting.  The Tullmuseum offers plenty of exhibitions about smuggling and anti-smuggling.

Kulturhuset

Kulturhuset offers temporary exhibitions throughout the year on everything from photography to theater to music and even comic books. Beware though, Kulturhuset is several floors and not all exhibitions are free.

Kungliga biblioteket (National Library of Sweden)

The museum houses the Codex Gigas, often called the Devil’s Bible. Unfortunately, the Codex Gigas is not viewable by the public.  They still have an impressive collection of historical documents.

Special Day FREE Entrances to Stockholm Museums:

Nordiska muséet (The Nordic Museum)

Free on Wednesday evenings but not valid from June-August.  They were smart knowing all the tourists visit then.  Nevertheless, the Nordiska Museum is located on Djurgården, near Vasa Museum, and hosts collections related to Swedish culture, food, holidays.  Currently on exhibition is a section dedicated to Swedish fashion and Swedish holidays.

Easter Eggs at Nordiska Holidays Exhibition
Easter Eggs

Kungliga Myntkabinettet (The Royal Coin Cabinet & Economy Museum) – Mondays all day – free admission

One of the royal museums of Sweden, the National Economy Museum host collections about the financial history of Sweden, coins, monetary usage, and medals.

Tekniska Museet (The  National Museum of Science and Technology)  - Wed 5-8PM free admission

This museum offers insight into how things work and why they work.  Current exhibitions are about space, sports, and transportation.  Sweden’s first passenger airplane hangs from the ceiling.

The next post will have information on free events and happenings throughout Stockholm during the summertime.

It was Monday after Midsommar and I had nothing better to do than visit the museum with Andrew and his family who are here to visit Stockholm. After two hours in the museum (more on that later), we headed to the Absolut Ice Bar near central station.
absolute drinks

It was 25C outside and sunny in Stockholm. In the ice bar it was -5C and required a funny coat and mittens that don’t warm you up. To say the least, visiting the frigid weather was refreshing and cooling. Wearing a short skirt and high heels is not recommended though.

If you are visiting Stockholm and enjoy Absolut vodka and ice sculptures then visit the Ice Bar at the Nordic Sea Hotel. Booking online is 25kr cheaper than going straight to the door. Who doesn’t love a deal! You can book at least one hour ahead of time. Go here to book. Prices to visit the Ice Bar:
Online pre-booked sessions: SEK 170 per person.
• Pre-booked session on sight or by telephone: SEK 180 per person.
• Drop-in sessions: SEK 195 per person.
• Guests staying at Nordic Sea Hotel: SEK 150 per person.
• Entrance with alcohol-free coctail: SEK 140 per person.
Evidently even being a guest at the hotel doesn’t give you a free ride.

absolut scary fish
The cost covers entrance into the bar and one drink. They have wild concoctions and being a true Swede myself, I ordered the Absolut Captain made of frozen lingonberries, lingonberry juice, and Absolut 100. Oh yea, the real shit.

Note to self, in the frozen bar you don’t feel buzzed at all. Outside, 30 minutes later, pushing your bike up Götgatan as old people pass you by, is when the buzz hits you.

My recipe for an Absolut Summer
1 part museum visit – to feel cultural
2 parts sunshine
1 part frozen bar & drink
1 jigga buzzed walk with bicycle
1 part happiness

Stir together and enjoy!

Små grodorna, små grodorna är lustiga att se.
Små grodorna, små grodorna är lustiga att se.
Ej öron, ej öron, ej svansar hava de.
Ej öron, ej öron, ej svansar hava de.

Kou ack ack ack, kou ack ack ack,
kou ack ack ack ack kaa.
Kou ack ack ack, kou ack ack ack,
kou ack ack ack ack kaa.

The sun is shining brightly, the girls are meeting midsommar men, and the fishes are splashing around on our dining plates.
Swedish Maypole

Welcome to the Swedish Midsummer!

Time to eat delicious strawberries, lax, sill, potatoes with dill, and of course aquavit. No midsommarfirande (midsummer festival) is complete without singing and dancing. Small frogs dancing around a maypole or seven pretty girls in a circle with flowers are essentials to the summer debauchery.

Seven girls in a circle:
Sju vackra flickor i en ring
sju vackra flickor i en ring,
vackraste flickor häromkring
ibland de flickor alla.

Flickorna vända sig omkring
flickorna vända sig omkring,
sökande efter vännen sin
ibland de gossar alla.

Vara vem det vara vill
vara vem det vara vill.
Den, som jag räcker handen till,
han har mitt unga hjärta.

Nu kan jag vara riktigt gla’.
Nu kan jag vara riktigt gla’.
Nu har jag fått den jag vill ha
ibland de gossar alla,
ibland de gossar alla.

This midsummer, I hope all of you are out of the city and in the forest or at Swedish countryside homes drinking brennvin and enjoying a true national Swedish holiday.

For all of you single bees, there are plenty of flowers to pollinate. Håkan Petersson from Folkungagillet, Linköping’s dance association said:

“Traditionally, Midsummer was a time where men and women could come together and flirt in ways that are much more subtle than today,” he says. “Many of these songs and dances reflect the flirtatiousness and are filled with innuendo.”

Maybe you can find a Swede in Sweden amongst the strawberry fields.

Now that spring is arriving, Stockholmers will hit the streets in droves from their 6 months of hibernation in the catacombs.

Whether you want the hole in the pub in Stockholm or an upscale diva’licious bar, Stockholm has the selection of places to drink. Upon first glace, you may only see the super posh and somewhat pretentious bars in Stureplan, Riche and Spy Bar bear in mind, but after delving into each of small sections of the city, you will find the right watering hole for you and friends and the beautiful swedish girls.

I split the list into two groups: one group is more of casual bars and pubs that serve food but are about the beers, rather than charging for the ambiance. The second group consists of posh bars and cocktail lounges that specialize in both beers and mixed drinks.

The Standard Lot and Casual Bars:
Prices range anywhere from 32kr for a stor stark (the strong big beer) to 65kr. Be prepared when visiting the bars in Stockholm, finding cheap bars is hard. You may have to add a bit extra weight to your wallet.

Cafe Tranen – Odenplan, Vasastaden – A popular place in Vasastan for the 20 and 30somethings to meet.  It’s located downstairs and the bar restaurant serves both beer and food.  If you are in that part of town, definitely swing by.

Monks – Sveavägen, innstaden – The other of beer conaisseur bars in Stockholm, Monks has a large selection of beers on tab.

Spitfire- Östermalm – Joined together with Oxid bar, Spitfire is a great hole-in-the wall English style bar with good beer on tap.  Prices are reasonable and there is a happy hour until 6PM. It’s a cozy little pub perfect for the Friday’s afterwork beers.  I have been to both Spitfire and Oxid many times and the ambiance is great and the whole world doesn’t descend upon the places either.

Tudor Arms Pub & Restaurang - Östermalm – Another great English pub where they actually closes at 11PM. Yes, 11PM, because in Britain that’s what time pubs must close. I love this place because of the food, the crazy owner (a large, loud, flirtatious bloke), and the unassuming ambiance. Prices are reasonable for being in the expensive Östermalm district.

Debaser – Slussen & Humlegården – One of my favorite places for ut servering (outside service), Debaser Slussen is located between Gamla Stan and Södermalm islands.  At night, local bands play inside (there is an entry fee) but you can sit outside freely.  There is also Debaser Humlegården in Östermalm.  Food is on the pricey side for being a bar but beers are reasonably priced.
Debaser Slussen

Akkurat – Slussen, Södermalm – One of the two beer connoisseur bars in Stockholm, the other beings Monks, Akkurat has more beer than your eyeballs or belly can imagine. Prices start at reasonable and sky rocket to beyond belief if you decide to go for the classy, hand brewed beers. In the summer, mussels are served at the bar and are a popular choice with the patrons.

Kellys – Medborgaplatsen, Södermalm – One of the few exceptions to the rule, you can find cheap beer in Stockholm.  Pretty grungy and loud rock music, it’s the place for cheap beers.

Carmen – Medborgaplatsen, Södermalm – A true hole in the wall with grumpy staff, get yourself before the rest of the crowd shows up and takes the 12 seats in the bar. Cheap beer and no music means bring the office coworkers with you.

Southside Pub - Zinkensdamn, Södermalm – The best hamburgers in town (at around 132kr), this Irish pub also has English quiz nights on Thursdays.  A great local spot and a foreign hangout on the quiz nights.

Snaps - Medborgaplatsen, Södermalm – A great meet up place for friends. The location is perfect; lying smack in Medborgaplatsen, it’s the perfect outdoor serving bar. Prices are typical of Stockholm.


Posh Places to Get Delicious Drinks:

Bauer – Slussen – Södermalm -  Smiley face lamps and cartoons adorn the walls but don’t assume it is a place for the kids. They make great cosmopolitans and other hard drinks.

Kungsholmen – Kungsholmen – The restaurant and bar that bears the same name as the island it lays upon, Kungsholmen is part of the Grupp F12.  A more trendy and light hearted place for both the aspiring twenty somethings and those with families, Kungsholmen offers great food (from Asian to more South American) and drinks to complement.

Gondolen – Slussen, Södermalm – Excellent mojitos and other hard liquor drinks.  Your wallet will be lighter when you leave.

Vampire Lounge – Södermalm – Located in a celler, the Vampire Lounge is a low key classy place for cocktails.  As they specialize in mixed drinks, you should be able to find anything you want.  And anything you don’t want (I once had a nasty green drink…should have asked the waiter about it before).

Ute Companiet
(part of Sture Companiet) – Stureplan, Östermalm -  One of the many super posh bars and restaurants in the Stureplan, Ute Companiet is fun because the whole place is outside next to Svampen (that giant mushroom).  It’s a great spot to people watch and see the wanna be richies mingle with the richies and the richies try to be ultra cool.  If you want to see stekare men, this is definitely the place.  You can also visit Sturehof, Riche, and Birger Jarl which have similar clientele but fun to visit if you’re looking for super class and well dressed Swedish men and women. There’s also the infamous Spy Bar which in honestly, is the crappiest and most expensive bar I ever visited to get the full Stureplan experience.
Ute Companiet & Svampen

On the 23rd morning, Porbjorn and I, and the rest of Sweden began our journey for Christmas break. This year, we traveled to Sälen, a ski town in central Sweden, close to the Norwegian border.

To get there, we had to take a bus. Luckily a direct bus. Because coming back to Stockholm we would be blessed by taking the car, bus, train, another train, and the tunnelbanan.

At 8.20 in the morning we arrived, bright, happy and stressed at Stockholms CityTerminaln, the city bus station. Being Swedish, and therefore being super organized, there is a lovely Arrivals and Departures board with gate information and times. Just like the airport. We head to the second floor where were leaving out of Gate 19.

Alas, a huge crowd overwhelmed the area between gates 16-19. In fact, we couldn’t even reach gate 19 because someone put up a barrier and people were standing in a moshed queue. Now, normally a queue in Sweden is a highly organized and semi high tech process. You go to the queue machine, take a number, and wait until the number is called on the bulletin board.

Today, being Christmas, was different. There was no organized queue. There was no information. It was 300 people standing in a mosh with two idiot ticket checkers. To be efficient, these two ticket agents were clearing four buses departing within 15 minutes of each other. Excellent, just what I need at 8.30 in the morning for a bus that leaves at 8.45.

Massive. Queue. FAIL.

We eventually pushed our way, with bags in tow, to the front of the crowd. The one of two brilliant ticket agents asked seven times (maybe I exaggerate, ten times), “Who’s going to Salen?” “We are!” screamed a dozen of us. Then two people get through. The other 300 people are still waiting to get through the line too. Then our idiot savant screams again, “Who’s going to Salen?” This time just ten of us say it. And it continues until the last three.

Now tickets checked, time to get on the bus. Nope, we had to push our way through another line where two buses were departing from gate 19. Morons at Flybussarna.

Eventually we fight our way to the right bus, get our luggage on, and get on the bus. Being of course almost full and every single ticket holder taking their own seat, it split couples and families. Porbjorn asked one guy if he would mind switching seats so that we could sit together.

“No,” he said.

Ahhh, the friendly asshat during the Christmas season travels. And that Swedish organization is just a myth during busy times.

In spring 2005 I visited Iceland for the first time. I won an auction for two tickets and two nights at the IcelandAir flagship hotel for $1000 from the Cal Alumni Assoc. Being naturally crazy, I dragged a friend to Iceland for a week at the end of April.

Then, in August 2007, I returned back to Iceland, this time to study Icelandic in the small city of Isafjordur. Icelandic? Yes, traveled to the tiny town to learn a bit more about the Nordic peoples.

Iceland is an adorable Nordic nation where the Norse gods and their Eddas originated. I love reading about the history of the country because the Norse language formed here as well as the pagan Norse religion. A must read for those interested in Icelandic history are the Poetic and Prose Eddas.

This post is for traveling in Iceland. I drove around the Ring Road, Route 1, and had the opportunity to see most of the major landmarks in the country. This article is a work in progress and I will keep adding more information to it. If you have photos or favorites places to share, please write a comment below.

Iceland is my favorite country and everyone has to visit the country. Join the Facebook group called Iceland and give the little place up north some love.

Reykjavik
The capital of Iceland, population 119,000. The photo below is the view from the largest church, Hallgrímskirkja.
Reykjavik city

Sólfar – The Sun Voyager
Located on the river front near downtown Reykjavik.
Sólfar - The Sun Voyager, Reykjavik

Þingvellir
Home of the world’s first parliament founded in 930AD.
Þingvellir -Alþing

Gullfoss and Geysir
Foss means waterfall in Icelandic. Gullfoss and Geysir are near Þingvellir (about 30-45 minutes away) and are beautiful places. While not the largest waterfall, Gullfoss is spectacular. Geysir is the name for several geysers located together. One of them erupts every 10 minutes or so.
geysir

Gullfoss - Iceland

Ísafjörður
This little city of 4000 is the capital of the West Fjords. Isafjordur is a cute, little city and taking photos in Isafjordur was amazing.
Isafjordur Iceland

Bolungarvik
Located about 10km away from Ísafjörður. There is a great Viking tour (it was organized through our class) in Bolungarvik. Best way is by car or bike, buses seldom pass by.
Bolungarvik, Iceland

Flateyri
Another small city in the West Fjords, about 20km away.
Near Flateyri

Vigur Island
An island less than an hour’s boat ride away from Isafjordur. A beautiful island with many species of birds, including the eider ducks who produce gorgeous down feathers.
Vigur

Akureyri
Largest northern city of Iceland at 17,000.
akureyri

Húsavík
husavik

Myvatn
Near Lake Myvatn, Iceland

Hverfjall
myvatn

Dettifoss
Europe’s largest waterfall located east of Mývatn. The waterfall is normally closed in the winter season.
Dettifoss
Courtesy of Dbrim

Jökulsarlon
One of my favorites places in Iceland, this glacier lake is a must see after visiting Skaftafell National Park.
jokulsarlon

A more panoramic photo of the glacier lake
Jokulsarlon

Skaftafell National Park
Another view of a glacier and a mountain

Vík
Church overlooking Vik

Skogafoss
Skogafoss


Vestmannaeyjar

Three Small Islands
From LittleFrank

Selfoss
A small city outside of Reykjavik. There’s a wonderful fish restaurant on the water called Fjöruborðið (translation from Icelandic: At the Seashore). The restaurant is 20-30min away from Selfoss and is closed on Monday and Tuesday.
A set of crosses from people who died from car accidents.
Field of Crosses, Iceland

Bláa Lónið – Blue Lagoon
One of the world’s most famous spa and lagoon. The Blue Lagoon is close to the Reykjavik Airport so many people stop there at the beginning or the end of their trip. There are also buses that pass through the Lagoon and into Reykjavik or the Keflavik Airport.
Blue Lagoon

Keflavik
The Reykjavik International Airport is located in this tiny city.

My two year anniversary visit to Iceland is coming up so there’s going to be a few articles about my travels and plenty of reminiscing.  What can I say, I love Iceland. =)

If you are off the loop and looking for something fun to read, take a look at these old posts about Iceland. Actually, they are the FIRST posts in this blog.  Pretty awesome stuff.  Wait wait.  I lie, there is one first post, nothing special to you but always important to this blog.

Tjoruhusid: Isafjordur’s Fish Restaurant

The Viking Alcohol: Icelandic Brennivin

Visiting Isafjordur, West Fjords

The First days living in Isafjordur

Say hello in Icelandic

Hope you guys enjoy and inspires you to travel and visit Iceland.

Visiting Stockholm during the summertime?  Here’s a quick guide to walking around the main city areas:  Innerstan, Gamla Stan, and Södermalm. This is not a detailed list of things to do because really it’s up to you where you want to go. But walking the city is the best.

Plan for lots of walking the city but the good news is that Stockholm is a pretty small city.
Innerstan:
serenity
Begin with a walk around central city starting at Sergels Torg, the water fountain across from Kulturhuset.  Walk along the main street, Hamnagatan, where the major shopping area is.  There is Gallerian Mall, NK (Nordiska Kompaniet) the fasionable department store – like Nordstroms, and the Stockholm Tourist Office.  As you walk along Hamnagatan you will pass Kungstragården a fountain and sitting area.  Many concerts and outdoor events take place here.  Continue walking to Strandvägen (the street changes name) which is the docking area for the ferry boats.  On the left, the Stockholm theater house sits.

Östermalm:
Crossing Strandvägen is a larger street called Birger Jarlsgatan.  It runs through Östermalm, the finest district of Stockholm.  You can see the fine shops and dining as well as experience stekare swedes.   There are lot of fun small streets off of Birger Jarlsgatan ( Nybrogatan and Grev Turegatan) and a wonderful park, Humlegården.

After walking through Östermalm, head back to Sergels Torg.  Check out the shopping area near Hötorget (the hay market) and the big deparment store Ahleans.  From there you can walk down Drottningatan towards Gamla Stan.

Gamla Stan:
Gamla Stan, Stockholm, HDR
In Gamla Stan, take a walking tour of the island. Visit the Rikshuset, Nobel Museum, and the small streets. Some of these streets are so narrow only two people fit in.  In the 1700s, Gamla Stan had around 700 bars and restaurants.  I don’t know how they fit all those little bars, but evidently it work.   Your can also take a ghost tour on Saturdays around sunset time.

Södermalm:

After Gamla Stan, walk to the next island called Södermalm. At Slussen, which is right on the water facing Gamla Stan take the elevator up to Gondelen, for an overlooking view of the city. Then walk along the water on the northern side of the island so you can view the rest of the city.

After seeing the water side of Södermalm, head to Götgatan, a North-South running street crossing the whole island. Plenty of shops, stores, bars and cafes to see. Check out Medborgaplatsen, aka Medis, a cute little square. Eat some tasty kebab food at Jerusalem Kebab. You can digress a bit and walk down Folkungagatan, a funky street full of music and instrument stores and some randomness.

If you are not tired yet, then I don’t know what’s wrong with you. Head yourself back to the hotel or where-ever you are staying, take a hot shower and then head out for a yummy dinner.

This is it. The swedes just have to stop going on vacation all summer long. Our office is becoming more and empty as the people empty out to the countryside, or wherever it is they have their vacation. Out of 150 people, there are 50 people in the office right now. That’s only 1/3rd full or a very small glass of milk. Honestly, how does Sweden function during this period of frivolity? And how are people in necessary industries, e.g. grocery stores, taxi, bus, postal, even able to handle work? When do they go on vacation? They have five weeks too, it must be somewhere.

Yep, five weeks. Hear that corporate America? The bane of my existence was the lack of vacation. In the US, you get 12 days of vacation; in Sweden, the law is a minimum of 25 days. That’s more than double in Sweden. Who wouldn’t want to work here then? Well, for one, if you work in the summer; it royally blows.

I am lonely here at the office, people are here and not here at the same time. One room is entirely empty; like 15 desks. And it will be empty until mid August, then the Swedes come back to reality. And right now, we have great weather in Stockholm. When Sweden has beautiful weather, you go out and run around a pole, or swim in a lake, or eat strawberries. And in this beautiful Swedish weather, I am stuck inside in the office staring at a computer screen.

But you know what. I exact revenge on the Swedes. At the beginning of September I head to California, where it will still be sunny and warm. While here in Sweden, they will all sulk over the changing weather. That’s the best way: take vacation during the Swedish winter. Maybe the all work and no play will make me a very happy person in five weeks time.

Take that Swedish summer!

I went to Göteborg (Gothenburg for those of you lacking the ö) for a weekend visiting Þorbjörn’s parents. This is my fifth visit to see them and it’s pretty the same deal everytime. Mom is excited we are there, dad drinks a Norrlands Guld 3.5% (the worst beer in the world, in my honest opinion), the dog plays with rocks, and we eat a lot of food. All in all, a great way to spend the weekend. If we are lucky, we can take the boat out onto the waters and see some pretty islands. I’m not lucky, the past month of sunshine disappeared and turned itself into rain and clouds. The weather gods are bastards.

But here are a few photos from where they live. It’s okay, be jealous now.
Gothenburg Boats
The view to the water from the boyfriend’s house.

Kärna summer house in Sweden

Kärna summer house in Sweden

The house on the right, under construction, is Þorbjörn’s family house. It should be 100sq meters once expansion completes.

We went to Marstrand, some pretty island that is very famous in Sweden. It required getting bundled up in waterproof materials and taking a 25 minute boat ride; which was awesome to say the least. When we arrived, there were some huge boats, sailboats that could probably compete. Those damn Norwegians, lots of money and nothing to do. On Marstrand, you can see the castle (we didn’t) and take a lovely walk around the island, we only spent an hour and half and had a beer. I saw little but still took a few photos.

Small street in Marstrand

Small street in Marstrand

Sweden on the water is amazingly beautiful. I love that Þorbjörn’s parents live on the water; it’s just amazing. Forget the city, living on the water to the ocean is way better.

The boat ride back from Marstrand was rainy, windy, and rocky. Our boat bounced quite a bit and at one point, I flew off my seat onto the floor. Next time I get a seatbelt. When we got back home, the rain vanished, of course it would, and I got to play with a jellyfish. No danger, no abuse. I just picked the little jellie and put him back in the water. He was very soft and squishy, and jelly-like (what a surprise). Must say, holding a Swedish sea jellie was the best thing of the weekend.

Holding a Jellyfish

Holding a Jellyfish